Four times a year we bottle a single run of organic milk from whatever the pasture is giving. Spring grass makes it grassy and bright; autumn hay makes it deeper, almost buttery. The batch and season are written on the tag.

Wax-dipped and numbered, in glass. When a run is gone it doesn't come back — the next one will taste like the next season.

Traced to one herd in Savoie — see the full story.